MARRAKESH, MOROCCO

TRANSPORTATION

Continental Airlines
Newark to Paris CDG > Paris ORL to Marrakesh
Marrakesh to Paris ORL >(+1 Day)Paris CDG to Newark

ACCOMODATIONS

Les Jardins De La Medina is a converted former riad located in the heart of the Marrakesh Medina.  The hotel is located on a quiet street where it’s only marker is a small wood door with a metal palm tree on it.  Upon entry we were directed to the beautiful courtyard where we were served mint tea and snacks while the staff checked us in.  We requested a standard room with  a blacony and were led there by the bellman.  He showed us around the room and out onto a lovely balcony that faced the courtyard.  I was shocked when he then pointed out the stairs up to our private rooftop terrace complete with dining area and lounge chairs.  While the room itself was not impressively large, the outdoor space and charming decor made for one of the best rooms we’ve ever stayed in.  I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the fact that even the water in the toilet was adorned with rose petals every day.

The hotel in itself was a destination.  Facilties included a large outdoor swimming pool, a lovely shop purveying local goods a beautiful restaurant and a world-class spa.  Perhaps the best service the hotel offered was at the Hammam, a traditional Moroccan steam bath that involves a specially made black soap and an hour of being scrubbed down with special exfoliating gloves.  Although rough at times, you’ll never be so clean in your life and a nice dip in the pool afterward is the icing on the cake.

FLAVORS

One word, OK two…..Couscous.   You cannot visit Marrakesh without consuming plenty of Morocco’s national dish.  We sampled it at various grades of restaurant around the Medina and it was never a bad decision.  Some of the restaurants are tourist traps so steer clear of men on the street trying to direct you into a particular establishment.  Your hotel concierge may offer some assistance, but they are usually on the take.  Your best bet is to ask someone at the hotel who doesn’t work at the front desk.

Please exercise caution when choosing meals that contain uncooked or undercooked ingredients if you plan on enjoying your trip and bottled water is a must.

WHAT TO SEE

Spend a whole day at the Djemaa el Fna, the open square in the center of the walled Medina.    Watch out for the Cobra charmers and the guys in the colorful hats that try to sell you an odd brown beverage that they expect you to drink out of a community cup.  Also, please don’t patronize the men who take your picture with a Baboon.  We saw these animals being severely mistreated a few times.  A great way to spend a sunset is an evening glass of mint tea perched up on one of the restaurant balconies that overlook the square.

You’ll find a maze of souks, markets, that will really test your navigation skills.  Definitely haggle down to the penny on your purchases.  This is not just a sale.  It’s an important cultural exchange that the shopkeepers hold dear.  You know they’ve won the better part of the deal when you are invited home for lunch or tea.  Do take them up on the offer.  Moroccans enjoy entertaining guests.

If you happen upon a very old man with a mountain of carpets behind him, you’ve found Abu Mohammed.  He’ll invite you to scale the mountain of carpets with the phrase “Democratic”.  Make sure you take his address before you leave.  He loves receiving mail and photos from people who have purchased is carpets and he’ll proudly show you these correspondence.

A great day out of the medina is a trip to the Cascades D’Ouzoud.  Located in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, the cascades are beautiful and home to a thriving little community of olive farms and “hippie” camps (during the summer this area is overrun with pot-smoking college students from Europe and the U.S).  The cascades are also home to some cheeky baboons who will come right up to you, so keep a good grip on your camera. 

The most comfortable and surprising inexpensive way to make the 2-hour journey each way is to arrange a private car with your hotel ahead of time.  One you arrive you’ll be greeted by multiple potential “tour guides” who will offer to get you down to the bottom of the falls via a scenic route through the olive groves.  We were a bit skeptical at first, but they are honest people and the trip down through the groves is lovely.  Our guide pointed out all the sites along the way and was extremely excited to talk about the outside world.  In all, he was worth every penny (probably the equivient of $25 for 3-4 hours of touring.

All of the guides direct you to the restaurant at the top of the falls.  Both the food and the bathrooms are dicey.  I’d bring a lunch and use the restrooms located down by the cascades before journeying back up the thousands of steps from the bottom.

 DO OVER

Don’t fly through Paris with an airport change between Charles de Gaulle and Orly at commuting times, EVER.  We had almost 5 hours between flights and even though we were all business moving through the transfer, we had to run onto the plane at Orly.  Paris traffic is pretty much the worst I’ve ever experienced.  I literally could have walked between the airports faster. 

I’d also fly Royal Air Maroc from JFK to Morocco and take the awaiting commuter flight to Marrakesh.  The flights are timed to acknowledge the US passengers and they arrive and leave at times that maximize the time you have to spend in Morocco.